Here’s Why You Should Take A Road Trip In Arunachal Pradesh

We set out to explore the natural beauty and test the tarmac in India's easternmost State

India is vast, bigger than many realise. Travelling from one end of the country to another could easily qualify as an international trip for most people, both because of the distance as well as the variety in terrain and culture. That's how I feel about taking a trip to the State of Arunachal Pradesh.

The collection of Indian States east of West Bengal is often collectively referred to as the ‘Northeast’. So, I found it fittingly humorous when a local called Arunachal the northeast of the northeast. Jokes aside, this perception is why many travellers like myself consider it a bit of a chore to explore these parts of the country. That's what the Trans Arunachal Drive event intends to change.

What is the Trans Arunachal Drive?

It is an event backed by the tourism board of the State of Arunachal Pradesh working with various organisers. The idea is to take a select group of people and take them across the State, from East to West, covering many iconic and meaningful locations in the journey. It spans 12 days and covers 2,500km. The route extends to the furthest corners of the State, close to India's national borders with China, Myanmar and even Bhutan. It also incorporates local interactions with some of the native tribes including some that still live in the wilderness.

The organisers of the rally allowed some of us to take part in selective portions of the whole journey. I opted for the third and final leg of the 2022 Trans Arunachal Drive that would take me from Pasighat to Tawang in the Western corner of the State.

How did we get around Arunachal?

India's leading brand of SUVs, Mahindra, had partnered with the team at Trans Arunachal Drive to provide the cars that would facilitate this epic journey. The fleet of vehicles at hand included the new XUV700, the Thar and various iterations of the first-generation Scorpio. We had around four units each of the XUV700 and Thar, while the remainder of the 30-car convoy was populated by Scorpios that were owned and driven by residents of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. There were even a couple of modified first-generation Thars for the whole journey.

My journey starts in Assam

The Government of Arunachal Pradesh is currently developing the infrastructure of the State, but lacks a commercial airport for the time being. The airports that do exist are primarily used by the military. Therefore, I took a flight from Delhi to Dibrugarh (in Assam) and was then ferried to Pasighat in Arunachal where I would convene with the Trans Arunachal Drive convoy.

Crossing the Bogibeel Bridge

Even on the ride from Dibrugarh airport to Pasighat, a journey of around 150km, I was quite impressed by the quality of the road. This was the NH515, and, while it became narrower owing to the hilly terrain of Arunachal as compared to the flats of Assam, it got me itching to get behind the wheel to experience it directly.

The key regional road hazard I have to advise you on is the abundance of cattle that have a strange affinity for being in the middle of the highway. It is worth noting that you can get into big trouble with the locals if you accidentally make contact with any livestock that tries to jump in front of your car, even a chicken.

Getting ready to roll-out from Pasighat

I joined the rest of the rally the following day, marking the start of the third leg. The convoy had returned to Pasighat after visiting Mechuka Valley near the Indo-Chinese border. After a morning briefing to introduce us to the existing group, we were allocated our rides and the convoy set off. I realised we were headed back down toward Assam as it was the faster route for that day's destination, Pakke Kessang. The majority of the ~350km distance was covered smoothly and quickly through the flats of Assam.

We re-entered Arunachal Pradesh near the town of Doimukh around 200km from Pasighat. For this stretch, I found myself in the backseat of a Mahindra Scorpio that was occupied by two fellow guests and the owner/driver. A benefit of not driving is that you can soak in the scenery and it was worth taking in. Cinematic expanses of green lay on either side of the highway with only small local structures in-between. It was a breath of fresh air, especially after nearly two years of breathing through tight masks. Overall, the ride was uneventful and comfortable.

Experiencing the back seat of the XUV700

At the lunch stop before Doimukh, I switched to the backseat of the XUV700. The models provided for the Trans Arunachal rally were the top-spec AX7 petrol-automatic variants and an AX7 diesel-automatic as well. It was quite a step up from the Scorpio's back seat as the XUV700 offers a more premium and comfortable experience. The final leg of the day would include twisty ribbons of tarmac as we entered the hills.

With just four occupants, the cabin feels spacious and plentiful. The panoramic sunroof made a huge difference as well as it makes the car feel roomier. It also gave a nice view of the lush green canopies through Arunachal. The pitter-patter of rain on the glass roof adds to the ambience while travelling through this part of the country.

The final stop for the day was a campsite at the edge of the Pakke Kessang Tiger Reserve, a clearing with a scenic view of the State's wild beauty.

The tents had already been set up ahead of the convoy's arrival so that allowed us to relax and unwind. The only struggle post a hearty dinner and drink was to squeeze oneself into the sleeping bag. At this time of the year, mid-May, the weather was mostly pleasant with temperatures staying above 10-degrees Celsius.

The head host at the night's stop was a native of the region, a member of the Nyishi tribe. He put on a version of the traditional Nyishi men's attire for the evening, replete with an animal-friendly version of the tribe's iconic hornbill hat made out of props and not an actual bird.

Another environmental change is the timing of sunrise and sunset based on the IST which goes through the centre of the country. Being further East, both events take place relatively earlier.

Off to Tawang! But first, we stop at Dirang

We left our campsite near Pakke Kessang and headed for Tawang early the next day. The 400km distance was to be covered in two days allowing the convoy to enjoy the sights and scenery along the way. We were to cover 290km on the first day and stop at Dirang. I took the driver seat in the petrol-automatic XUV700 for this stretch.

The entire journey from hereon would be in the hills which allowed me to get familiar with the might of Mahindra's 200PS 2-litre turbo-petrol engine. I was blown away by the quality of the roads, primarily the NH13. The tarmac was relatively new and quite smooth, allowing me to enjoy driving the XUV700 in comfort.

Dirang is a settlement next to the river of the same name and you get a great view of the valley ahead just at the entrance into town. It is also the hometown of one of the key organising members of the Trans Arunachal Drive, Tsering Lakhpa.

You can see down the valley from the Dirang viewing point

A successful rally driver himself, Lakhpa was in an XUV700 too and always a few kilometres ahead of the convoy to ensure smooth passage for the rest of us. He hosted all of us at his residence for dinner that night, introducing us to some of that region's local culture and cuisine. This included a drink called Apong that is popular among tribes of the Northeast and is prepared by the fermentation of rice. If you're exploring this part of the country and you enjoy alcoholic beverages, this is certainly worth trying. Make sure you have no plans afterwards, as it is best followed up with a hearty meal and a nice sleep.

The slow sections

Despite my earlier praise for the fantastic roads I experienced, it wasn't all tarmac. There were rough patches along the way, most of which were roads that were under construction. Some were new roads altogether, while some were being repaired after landslides.

Due to the amount of rain, landslides are a common occurrence and a frequent blockade in traffic to these parts of Arunachal. We too got held up by a fresh landslide on our way to Dirang. Luckily no one seemed to have been caught up in it and we had a relatively short wait of fewer than 2 hours before it was cleared by the authorities concerned.

It is worth noting that not all landslides can be cleared as quickly. Depending on where you are, the severity of the landslide, and the availability of the nearest construction vehicle, it could be many hours before you can continue your journey.

For the rough and broken patches, it was a relief to be in an SUV and not something with compromised road clearance. It was light work for the Thars and Scorpios while the fully-loaded XUV700 was also able to clear most muddy paths comfortably. The various vehicle health telematics and the tyre pressure monitor seen on the driver display provided much-needed information and added relief after every 'oof' moment through rocky patches.

A wondrous place called Sela Pass

Our route from Dirang to Tawang included a BRO-constructed stretch that was already gaining popularity among travellers. The Sela Pass is a mountain passage that connects the West Kameng district to the Tawang district. This route took us through the unperturbed natural beauty of this end of the Himalayan mountain range.

The journey is one heck of a climb. Following the NH13 toward Sela Pass, we were gaining altitude every few hairpin bends. As we rose, a mist descended upon the convoy like a cloud of fog. It was not blinding, but simply obstructed the view of the mountain range. Going higher, we emerged from the fog to see a clear blue sky and seemed to be on a par with the clouds. The road continued to climb until it felt like we were above them. Only a few peaks are notably higher than that mountain we were on, their tips still white with snow.

As a passenger for this part of the journey, I was able to soak in the view with uninterrupted awe. The best comparison I can offer would be the view from a plane window on a clear day in the bright blue sky. When you finally do reach the Sela Pass, complete with the usual gateway that adorns most town entries in the State, you will see a board that tells you how high up you really are.

At the top of Sela Pass, you are 13,700ft or approximately 4,175 metres above sea level. For reference, Dirang is around 1,600 metres above sea level.

There is also a lake at the top of the mountain called Sela Lake and we made a brief stop to take in the ambience. Even though it was bright and sunny, I felt the chill of the wind cut through me and my body's water content felt like ice. Combined with the thinner air at this altitude, it left me feeling winded before taking a few breaths to get used to the new atmosphere. Putting on a thicker jacket helped, but the cold breeze continues to attack your face and hands. A small group of us walked along the lake to the other side while others waited for us with the cars. I even stopped to dip my hands in the lake. Its water was chilling to the bone, but a worthy endeavour for the unique experience.

Taking a stop to walk alongside Sela Lake

We passed through a cloud of mist on our way down from Sela Pass and it truly felt like driving through an unseen portal that granted access to the sky and serenity at the top of the mountain.

The Sela Pass is also a great area to experience snow during winter. On the first edition of the Trans Arunachal Drive in April 2021, the convoy encountered plenty of it on its way to Tawang.

Majestic falls of Arunachal

Tawang was still 70 to 80km away and we had half the day in hand. I was once again piloting the XUV700, this time down the mountains. These roads were a little more worn thanks to the heavy military traffic. Still, it was a smooth drive with the same exception of certain stretches under repair or undergoing development. It was a short journey of fewer than 50km to our lunch stop near Jang.

The view from the road approaching Jung Falls

We turned off the NH13 shortly after passing the town of Jang and arrived at the Jung Falls. It is also popularly known as Nuranang Falls, named after the river it flows into. At this time of the year, the fall seemed to have a strong flow and created a thick mist as the water crashed onto the rocks below. It made for a magnificent sight. This waterfall alone seems reason enough to visit this place and seems worth the long drive.

The best part was that the base of the falls was easily accessible to visitors. We parked at the Jung hydroelectric power station at the end of the road and simply took the stairs down toward the falls and the river.

Finally getting to Tawang

We were around 30km from the city of Tawang and I returned to the rear seat for the final stretch. It was the first truly populous settlement I'd seen in Arunachal thus far. The signs of progress were visible in the form of ongoing infrastructural development that had bottlenecked the traffic in the city. It was nearly dusk by the time we reached our hotels near the famous Tawang Monastery.

An entry to the Tawang Monastery

Part of its fame comes from Tawang's historic significance to followers of the Buddhist faith as the city is said to have been the birthplace of the Sixth Dalai Lama in the late 17th century. Furthermore, the monastery itself was said to have been founded at the behest of the Fifth Dalai Lama in 1680.

Seeing the full scale of the monastery on our way out of Tawang

The monastery comprises multiple buildings that fulfil the various needs of the monks, from schools to housing, prayer rooms to dining halls, and more. Unfortunately, it was closed by the time we arrived at Tawang on the evening of May 14 and I was unable to wake up early enough to visit it before we left town the following morning. I did get to see the library, which was the building closest to our hotel. The best way to see the true scale of this monastery is while heading north of Tawang city.

Making it to Zemithang

It was technically the last day of the 2022 Trans Arunachal Drive and we were joined by members of the State Tourism Board at the Tawang Circuit House. The final destination for the rally was Zemithang, a location near the northwestern border of Arunachal Pradesh that is also in close proximity to the national border with China.

For this final leg of the journey, I was assigned to drive the Mahindra Thar. It was a rare example of the AX(O) trim with the 2.2-litre diesel engine mated to a 6-speed manual transmission. This particular unit was wearing off-roading tyres on steel wheels which did affect the ride somewhat. Even though we were no longer on NH13, the roads were predominantly smooth thanks to the efforts of the BRO and the State.

On the way to Zemithang, we stopped at Shungaster Lake. On that day, the lake was a living picture of serenity, peace and natural beauty. This area seemed to have an increased military presence than the city due to its proximity to the border. But as a result, there's also a decent cafe at the lake and you might find someone selling warm apparel too.

There were no more stops on the way to Zemithang and it was a scenic route through the twisty roads with lush green expanses down the hills. Our route included a fascinating section of tarmac called Kumrotsar which features 66 bends in quick succession as you descend down the mountain and toward the valley.

While the entire stretch is paved with tarmac, it is still a bit bumpy with steep angles with small portions having been washed away that needed repair. If this section was to be widened and smoothened, it would be a fun road for sports cars as well. However, navigating this part in the Thar with off-roading tyres, in a convoy, was a bit of a chore. It still took nearly 2 hours to cover the 35km journey from the lake.

The lunch arrangement in Zemithang was made in an open field just ahead of the town. It was the best meal of the trip as we were treated to brilliant local delicacies courtesy of our host, Tsering Lhamu who is the wife of that region's MLA, Shri Jambey Tashi. The local residents were playing a game of cricket on another part of the ground which added to the cultural ambience of our stop.

Some local children were looking to be part of the day's events and posed for some photos

I retired to the rear seat of the Thar for the trip back to Tawang. We took a different route in order to check out some more cool locations along the way. Using the NH13 once again, it was a 90km trip to Tawang. We passed another Buddhist structure called the Gorsam Chortem which is said to be the largest 'stupa' in the region. Simply defined, a 'stupa' is a domed structure that houses ancient relics and is used for meditation.

Our next stop was the giant statue of Tara Devi near Lumla, another structure of religious significance. It is one of the more modern structures we visited as it was recently renovated. The statue is quite impressive in its scale and still has a fresh sheen to it.

This is one of the largest statues of the Tara Devi, complete with a complex to host many spiritual travellers

It was another 45km to Tawang which was covered at a comfy pace and took another two hours. Our penultimate stop for the day was the Tawang War Memorial which is dedicated to the soldiers who fought around Tawang during the Indo-Sino war of 1962. After a brief tour of the memorial, we rushed back to the city for the big finale.

A senior officer explaining the significance of the memorial to our group

The entire convoy was ceremoniously welcomed at the giant Buddha statue of Tawang. The flag-in was led by the Chief Minister of Arunachal Pradesh, Pema Khandu.

Our evening concluded with a gala event, interacting with the organisers and State officials. We were also treated to folk performances.

Catching the flight home

The Trans Arunachal Drive 2022 had officially concluded. It was time for most of us to fly back home from Guwahati airport. That's a journey of more than 500km with nearly 300km through the hills. Despite the odds, our convoy of Mahindra XUV700s, Thars and a few Scorpios made it in time for our respective flights. This last stretch also proved that the majority of the roads in the State are quite inviting for a nice long drive.

Final thoughts

If I had to describe my trip to Arunachal Pradesh in one word, it would be 'aesthetic'. While I'm quite used to visiting the Himalayas in the State of Himachal Pradesh, it was a different experience to be on the other end. The lack of development seemed to have preserved the natural greenery of the terrain and it looked vibrant at this time of year. As a citizen of the urban concrete jungle, these experiences felt like I was living in a scene from The Jungle Book or something out of The Lord Of The Rings.

After covering over 1,000km in just my leg of the rally, I'd say 80 per cent of the route was brilliant while 20 per cent was in the process of getting there. Also, make sure you get all the necessary permits ahead of time to travel across the State with ease, since it is a high-security region of the country.